Ceiba's terminal is the reason the east coast works as a base. Passenger ferries run several times a day to both islands; the small airport next door does 10-minute hops.

Book ferry tickets online a few days ahead in high season. Molly will text you the current schedule.

A long, calm beach on the old naval base land — shallow water, shade trees, almost nobody on a weekday.

Bring your own everything. There's nothing to buy, which is the point.

The snorkeling beach. Calm reef on the right side, kiosks and a bathroom, and the Las Cabezas nature reserve next door.

Go before 10 on weekends. Pair it with the bio bay kayak in the evening.

The only tropical rainforest in the US forest system. La Mina trail, the towers, the waterfalls — and rain, always, so leave the good shoes.

Reservations are required for the main gate. Ask us about the south entrance from Naguabo.

Sixty kiosks in a row on PR-3: alcapurrias, pinchos, mofongo, live music on weekends. Our old neighborhood — we'll tell you which numbers.

Kiosk 2 and Kiosk 40-something for dinner; walk to Playa Azul after.

Small-town plaza, a bakery, a couple of fondas, and the muralists whose work is all over the island's east coast.

Walk it in the morning. The panadería sells out.